Back on Track

 

Friday 14th June
We woke at 2:50am for a 6:45 flight to Uganda.  It was pretty awful, but then we hadn't been sleeping well in Nairobi anyway.  The drive to the airport took about 20 minutes so we were quite early for the flight, in fact we arrived about 10 minutes before any check in staff were even there.  Prior to that though we had another instance of wonderful African security.  As the car arrived at the entrance to the carpark we had to get out and walk through a metal detector and any bags were XRayed.  Of course the car, with our bags, drove ahead and picked us up when we left security.  So it was lucky we left our guns and knives in the car.  Another XRay machine and metal detector to get into the building, at least this time we had our bags.

The flight from Nairobi to Entebbe was just over an hour - and we heard later that it could be done in 45 minutes but they slow it down to allow for some food service. (A croissant and tea/coffee).

After contacting our tour company to say the visa had arrived and giving them flight details, they arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport and drive us 7.5 hours to Lake Bunyonyi Overland Resort, where the tour group will arrive tomorrow. The drive allowed us to see quite a lot of Uganda.  It of course has many similarities to Kenya (roadside markets, 4 to a motorbike and road users doing basically what they like) but, in general, seems more prosperous.  Many of the houses are done in a European style and the roads seemed pretty good.  There was a 25km long tollway ($2) that was very good and the highway had less potholes than the Melba Highway.  Apparently the roads we were on are regularly used by the President, so that probably explains their condition.

One area we went through is known for its dairy and long horn cattle.  The longhorns were pretty amazing with horns up to 1 metre long.  Plaintains were everywhere as well and are hugely popular. (Like bananas but smaller and meant to be cooked, not eaten raw)  Our driver isn't a fan of them though and after trying some at lunchtime neither are Trace or I.  Very plain and no real taste.

The final 8 km was on a pretty rough dirt road.  Along the way there were around a dozen sites where men and women (often with young children beside them) were hard at work digging their way into the rockface and smashing rocks into small chunks for use in concrete.  Looked like very hard work and not terribly safe as some of the men were 5-10 metres up the cliff face - of course no harness or safety gear.

The resort is right on Lake Bunyonyi and we have a beautiful view of it from our balcony.

Saturday 15th June
It's my birthday, it's my birthday :)
Woke to very many messages, which was lovely, and spoke to Mum on Messenger.  Breakfast was at 9:00 then we wandered around the complex.  It is pretty big with hotel style rooms - which we are in - cabins, 'glamping tents' and flat ground for people to pitch their own tents. It is on the shore of Lake Bunyonyi, which is the deepest lake in Uganda, going as deep as 6500 feet deep (almost 2km).

After our walk we went back to our room where I listened to Dusty's 300th game,  which was ultimately disappointing.  We then spoke to the kids on Messenger for about 45 minutes.

More sitting and reading of books before heading to the bar for a birthday whisky (Jameson).  Around 6:00pm we heard the Nomad truck arrive and a little while later went and introduced ourselves.  There are 7 others on the tour, all women!  We had dinner with them and chatted a bit. They seem a nice bunch and we will get to know them better over the coming days. 

Sunday 16th June
The day of our much anticipated Gorilla treak had arrived and we woke at 4:30 for breakfast at 5:00 and leaving at 5:30. Now that we have joined the tour all meals are provided, as the truck has a driver and cook. I had porridge and a piece of toast.  We had a 1.5hr drive to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, with the last 30 minutes on some truly horrible roads.  Trace and I sat at the back of the mini bus and were being bounced around all the time, on a seat that moved forward and back 10cm or so. (We rearranged on the way home so that nobody sat in the back row)

Arriving at the Forest we had a presentation from a local dance group before being briefed on what to expect and to do on the walk.  Basically plenty of water, packed lunch and bring your rubbish home.  When near the Gorillas, wear a mask, speak quietly and no food or drink.  We were not to go any closer than 10 metres, but if they came closer that was fine.  If they get really close then try to back away but if you can't then stand still and if they touch (or punch) you, don't react.

The walk in was along a fairly skinny trail, up and down hills and over logs.  We were each given a walking stick before we set off and they were very handy. After around 45 minutes we were told the 'forward scouts' had found the Gorillas and they were just ahead.  We could see black through the trees and all started to get excited.  We dropped our walking sticks - the Gorillas don't like them - had a final sip of water and put on our face masks.  Then we went down a slope and stopped in front of a group of around 20 Gorillas.  Some were on the ground and quite a lot were up in the trees.  For the next hour we watched as a couple of juveniles played 'chasy' with each other, a Silverback wandered through, mothers with young babies came down from the trees, young ones beat their chests and they all just went about their business ignoring us.  Well mostly, one of the women had a young Gorilla come up and sniff her then reach out to touch her.  I had a mother and baby walk about a metre in front of me and Trace had a mother and baby basically brush past her, but the sniffing and touching was a whole nother level.  As well as watching, we listened to their grunting and other noises, including some epic flatulence. Didn't smell anything but there were quite a few instances of long and loud farts which made us all giggle.

The hour was over way too quickly and we made the walk back to our car and to the start point, where we ate our lunch and were given certificates.  Our main guide kept talking about how we were part of the solution in keeping these amazing animals safe and really wants us to go home and encourage others to visit Uganda and the Mountain Gorillas.  Having done many African safaris I can honestly say this ranks right at the top of my experiences.